This week’s beer is Hennepin, a bottle conditioned farmhouse saison ale brewed by Brewery Ommegang. It was fabulous and more drinkable than expected. Brewery Ommegang had a spot at the Great American Beer Festival and while I remember drinking the saison there, I didn’t remember anything particular about it – that’s nothing against the beer, it’s just a fact that there were so many completely wonderful beers at the GABF. I loved all the spicy Belgian ales I tried; since I only took moderately decent notes they all ran together after a bit, so it was time to try one on its own and recall its glory.
Saison is described as a rustic beer. Rustic, of course, indicates something rural. Hennepin is labeled as a farmhouse ale in keeping with this rustic theme. Now, to be honest, when I read “farmhouse” I began wondering what kind of odd tastes would be occurring in this beer. Essence of udder? An undeniable zest of dust and hay?
According to Michael Jackson in his book Beer Companion, saison’s were “beers to be served at family meals.” I imagined an old Belgian farmer brewing this beer in his old barn. He brews it somewhat strong (Hennepin is 7.7% abv) during the spring so that it will endure the summer months. When the family then gathers for a meal at the end of their day, out comes a bottle of ale; refreshing, spicy, full of bucolic character.
As I looked at the bottle of saison I purchased (a corked bottle, mind you, adding to the ‘rustic’ theme) I pretended I had wandered through an old room in the Belgian farmer’s old abandoned house on a field overgrown with, well, growing things, and finding one last bottle of his ale.
The first taste upheld that vision. The beer has a gossamery body. It fills the mouth with an initial tartness and just a hint of sourness and maybe a little tang of carbonation but then dissolves quickly, like cotton candy. Once that was gone the spice emerged. It reminded me of weeds, and while that doesn’t really sound appealing, it was in truth very good. Perhaps it was the “rustic” theme that forced me to think of weeds. It was reminiscent of a wheat beer (not only in flavor but appearance; it was hazy and orange).
Hops made themselves known in the aftertaste. Their citrus notes and bitter harmony lingered, leaving a dryness, though not a harsh one. There was also the tiniest hint of metal, like copper. It wasn’t tinny and it wasn’t very pronounced but it arose from time to time.
The same can be said of the aroma. Copper could be distinguished, but only very slightly and just as the beer began to warm. Mostly, the hops controlled the bouquet. The hops lent an earthy, musty character to the smell. Once again, the word rustic arises. It smelled like an ancient treasure.
How satisfied the old farmer would be that someone found pleasure in his drink. The smell and the taste were outstanding; it was old and unique and earthy. How satisfied I was as I looked at my empty glass – well, not empty. The beer’s head was still there, lining the inside of the glass, puddled at the bottom looking like whipped cream from a warm cup of hot chocolate. From the moment it was poured to the moment the saison was done it never dissipated .
Saison is generally brewed year round now. Brewery Ommegang’s Hennepin is fabulous. If you’re in the mood for a unique beer with lots of character and spice, a saison should be on your list.
Posted by Gray Hunter 
Posted by Gray Hunter 